Tartan is not just a pretty chequered pattern. It is a precise woven design with rules, history, and meaning. At its core, a tartan is a repeating sequence of coloured stripes that cross in the warp and the weft to create new shades where they meet. 

The pattern is defined by a threadcount, a numeric recipe that fixes colour order and scale, and it is usually woven in a twill that gives the cloth its diagonal ripple. That structure is why tartan reads clearly on kilts, scarves, and smaller items like watch straps.

This guide is your complete reference. You will learn what tartan is in formal terms, how a sett works, and how to read a threadcount. We will cover the history, from early Highland dress to the 19th century revival and today’s fashion.

You will see the main types, Modern, Ancient, Muted, Weathered, Hunting, and Dress, plus clan, district, and regimental tartans. We will explain registration and etiquette, clear up tartan vs plaid, and show you how to choose the right palette, fabric weight, and scale for your needs.

What Is Tartan, A Clear Definition

Formal definition, sett, warp and weft, 2x2 twill, threadcount

A tartan is a precise woven design that repeats the same sequence of coloured stripes across both directions of the cloth. Stripes running lengthwise are the warp, stripes running across are the weft. Where colours cross, they blend optically into new squares. Most traditional tartan cloth uses a 2x2 twill weave, two threads over and two under, which creates a subtle diagonal rib and helps the fabric drape.

The design itself is fixed by a threadcount. This is a list of colours and numbers that tells the weaver the exact order and size of each stripe. Example: G8 K24 R2 K24 G8 W4 means 8 threads of green, 24 black, 2 red, 24 black, 8 green, 4 white, then the sequence repeats in the weft the same way. In other words, the threadcount is the formal tartan definition in code, and the repeated unit is the sett.

Symmetrical vs asymmetrical setts, pivots, how repeats work

A symmetrical sett mirrors around a centre point called the pivot. You can think of the sequence as running forward to the pivot, then backward. If the half-sett is G8 K24 R2, the mirrored whole sett is G8 K24 R2 K24 G8. On the loom it continues ... G8 K24 R2 | pivot | R2 K24 G8 ..., so the pattern reflects cleanly.

An asymmetrical sett has no mirror. The full sequence simply repeats from the start. If the threadcount is G8 K24 R6 B8, the cloth continues ... G8 K24 R6 B8 | G8 K24 R6 B8 .... Both types are authentic. The choice affects how stripes align across seams and pleats.

Tartan vs plaid, the garment meaning of “plaid” in Scotland

In Scotland, tartan is the pattern, while a plaid is a garment, for example a large tartan wrap worn with Highland dress. In North America, people often use plaid as a generic word for check patterns. All tartans are a kind of plaid in that broad sense, but not every plaid is a registered tartan with a defined sett and threadcount.

Anatomy of a Tartan Pattern

Threadcount notation with an example

A threadcount lists colours by letter, followed by the number of threads for each stripe. Common letters include K black, G green, R red, B blue, W white, Y yellow.

Example threadcount (symmetrical):

The pivot sits between the two central stripes in a symmetrical sett. The repeat on the loom looks like:

Sett size and visual scale for different products

The same threadcount can be woven larger or smaller. That physical scale is the sett size. Picking the right scale keeps the pattern legible.

• Watch straps: small sett, roughly 30 to 50 mm across the full repeat, so at least one dark and one light block appear on a narrow band.

• Ties and small accessories: small to medium sett, roughly 50 to 80 mm, so the pattern reads without turning into a single colour.

• Kilts and skirts: larger sett, often 150 to 200 mm, so the full geometry is visible across pleats and front apron.

These ranges are practical guidelines. Final scale depends on stripe widths in the design, the fabric weight, and how much of the sett a product can show.

Reading tartan charts, colour codes, pivots

Most tartan charts show the sett as a square, with colour blocks and overlaid thread lines. To read a chart:

1. Match letters to colours using the key, for example K black, G green, R red.

2. Follow the threadcount in order across the warp, then expect the same sequence in the weft.

3. Locate the pivot in symmetrical setts. The pattern mirrors at this point, so you only need to list half the sequence when documenting the design.

4. Check stripe proportions. The numbers are counts of threads, not millimetres. The physical size of each stripe depends on yarn thickness and the chosen sett size.

How Tartan Is Made

Fibres, wool, polyviscose, cotton blends

Traditional tartan is woven in worsted wool. Worsted yarn is combed so the fibres lie parallel, which gives a clean surface, crisp colour definition, and the drape you see in kilts. Some mills also use woollen spun yarns for softer scarves and blankets. Polyviscose is a popular alternative for uniforms and everyday accessories. It blends polyester with viscose rayon, which makes the fabric durable, colourfast, and easier to wash, with a hand feel that is surprisingly close to wool when finished well. Cotton and cotton blends appear in shirts, summer skirts, and lighter accessories. Cotton breathes well and takes colour cleanly, but it does not hold a sharp pleat like wool.

Weaves, twill, balanced vs unbalanced

Most tartan cloth is a 2x2 twill, two threads over and two under. Twill creates the diagonal wale that helps the cloth drape and makes colour transitions look smooth where warp and weft cross. Some very light fabrics use plain weave for breathability, and heavy blankets may use a loftier twill for warmth. A balanced tartan fabric keeps similar yarn counts and tension in warp and weft so colours mix predictably and the sett looks square on the loom. An unbalanced construction favours one direction, for example more warp density than weft, which can elongate the checks and dull the optical mixing. For most garments and accessories, a balanced 2x2 twill preserves the designer’s intended proportions.

Fabric weights, lightweight, medium, heavyweight, use cases

Mills describe tartan by finished weight. Lightweight fabrics around 10 to 11 oz per yard, roughly 330 to 360 gsm, suit ties, shirts, light skirts, and warm climates. Medium weights around 12 to 13 oz, roughly 400 to 480 gsm depending on width, are the all round choice for day wear kilts, dresses, and structured accessories. Heavyweight cloth around 16 to 18 oz, roughly 510 to 560 gsm, delivers crisp pleats, strong swing, and a formal look for ceremonial kilts. For very small items, like watch straps, many makers use robust polyviscose or tightly woven medium weight wool so the pattern remains legible and the edges stay clean.

A Short History of Tartan

Pre 1700 origins and early examples

Checked textiles appear in Scotland well before the modern clan system. Archaeological finds show simple checks and early twills that prove the idea of crossing coloured stripes is ancient in the region. By the late medieval period, Highland communities were already using striped and checked cloth in everyday wear. These early patterns were practical and local, tied to available dyes rather than formal family identities.

18th century Highlands, Dress Act of 1746, repeal in 1782

By the 17th and early 18th centuries, what we now call tartan had become a hallmark of Highland dress. After the Jacobite Rising of 1745, the British Parliament passed the Dress Act of 1746, which restricted Highland dress in an effort to break clan loyalties. The law did not erase tartan from Scotland, but it did limit public use in the Highlands. In 1782 the Act was repealed. Highland dress and tartan returned to public life, first through regiments and piping traditions, then through growing civilian pride.

19th century revival, romanticism, royal influence

The 1800s transformed tartan from regional cloth into a national symbol. Romantic writers celebrated Highland culture, antiquarians began documenting and naming setts, and clan associations took shape. King George IV’s 1822 visit to Edinburgh included a choreographed display of tartan that fuelled demand. Later in the century, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert embraced Highland style at Balmoral. Their influence encouraged families, regiments, and institutions to adopt distinctive patterns, and mills standardised colours with synthetic dyes. Much of the modern language around “clan tartans” was codified in this period.

20th to 21st century, clans, regiments, fashion, global adoption

Through the 20th century, tartan travelled with the Scottish diaspora and appeared in everything from military uniforms to school ties. Designers used tartan in couture and streetwear, and musicians adopted it as a visual statement. Today, clans and family societies still champion traditional setts, while companies, charities, and cities commission new designs for events and anniversaries. Public registration and digital design tools make it easier to document patterns and preserve their threadcounts. The result is a living system, rooted in Scottish tartan history, that continues to evolve across culture, fashion, and everyday products.

Types of Tartan by Colour Variant

Modern palette, saturated synthetic dyes

Modern palettes use strong, saturated colours that became common once synthetic dyes were widely available. Think deep bottle green, navy, vivid scarlet, bold black, and bright white. Modern colourways read crisply at a distance, which is why they are popular for kilts, uniforms, and statement accessories. The sett, the threadcount recipe, does not change. Only the dye shades do.

Ancient palette, softer natural dye look

Ancient palettes aim to mimic the softer effects of historical natural dyes. Greens lean towards moss, blues towards sky, reds towards brick, and blacks may appear dark brown. The result feels weathered by sun and time without looking dull. Ancient is a good choice for a more heritage or casual feel while keeping the exact same sett as Modern.

Muted or Weathered, aged effect

Muted and Weathered palettes push the ageing effect further. Colours are toned with grey so the whole tartan feels subdued, almost as if it has been worn and washed for decades. This works well for tailored clothing, interiors, and accessories where you want tartan texture without high contrast. Again, the sett remains identical. Only the palette changes.

Hunting and Dress versions, purpose and colour shift

Hunting versions swap brighter colours for earth tones that blend into fields and forest. Expect more green, brown, and blue, and less scarlet. Dress versions add more white or light tones, especially in the background, for formal and ceremonial wear. Both are variants layered onto the same clan or district sett. They are not different clans.

Comparison table: same sett across palettes

Types of Tartan by Affiliation

Clan and family tartans

Clan tartans are linked to Scottish surnames and their historical clans. Many surnames have several recorded setts, for example Modern, Ancient, Dress, or Hunting variants. You do not need documented lineage to wear most clan tartans, although some designs may be noted as restricted by convention. If you have a family connection, start with that surname, then pick the palette that suits your use.

District and regional tartans

District tartans represent places rather than families. Examples include islands, regions, and cities. These are ideal if you have roots in a location or simply love a place. District tartans are widely considered open to anyone. They are useful for teams, clubs, and civic events where a shared place matters more than a shared surname.

Regimental and governmental tartans, example, Black Watch

Regimental tartans are associated with military units and government bodies. The best known is Black Watch, also catalogued as Government No. 1, a dark green and blue sett with black that dates to 18th century Highland units. Regimental patterns often appear in civilian wear too, since many have become universal favourites. Always check for any stated restrictions if you are sourcing fabric for formal uniforms.

Corporate, organisational, commemorative tartans

Corporate and organisational tartans are created for companies, charities, schools, and associations. Commemorative tartans mark anniversaries, events, and public celebrations. These designs follow the same rules as any other tartan. They have a documented threadcount and an official record. Some are restricted to members, employees, or licensees, while many are open for general use.

These affiliation types, together with the colour variants above, give you a full map of options. Whether you choose clan tartans, district tartans, or regimental tartans, you are selecting a registered sett first, then a palette that fits your style and purpose.

Registration and Authenticity

Scottish Register of Tartans, what it records, how entries work

The Scottish Register of Tartans is the public record of tartan designs. Each entry stores the tartan name, a unique reference number, the full threadcount, a colour key, the design category, the date of registration, the designer and owner, and any stated restrictions. A thumbnail of the sett shows how the colours interact. Because the Register preserves the exact threadcount, it functions like a design passport. Anyone can look up a name, confirm the specification, and see whether a tartan is open or restricted.

How to register a new tartan, eligibility, documentation

Individuals, clans, companies, charities, and civic groups can all register a tartan. You provide the name, designer or owner details, a statement of purpose, and the formal threadcount with colour references. Most submissions include a high quality image of the sett and a note about the affiliation, such as clan, district, corporate, or commemorative. If you are registering on behalf of a group, the Register may ask for a letter of authority from that organisation. Once accepted, the tartan receives a reference number and appears in the public database.

Restrictions, examples like Balmoral, what “restricted” means

Most tartans are open to all. A small number are marked restricted. That means the owner limits weaving, sale, or wear to specific people or contexts. Balmoral, designed by Prince Albert, is reserved for the Royal Family and their pipers. Some corporate or regimental setts are also restricted to members or licensees. If a tartan is restricted, the Register entry will say so. When in doubt, choose an open design or ask the fabric supplier for guidance.

Who Can Wear Which Tartan

Etiquette, open wear vs restricted designs

General etiquette is simple. You can wear any open tartan. Honour restricted designs by leaving them to those who are entitled to use them. On formal garments, such as kilts and sashes, match your choice to the event. On everyday items, such as ties, scarves, and watch straps, feel free to pick a sett that suits your taste or connection.

Choosing if you have no clan link, universal tartans

If you do not have a clan connection, you still have many good options. Universal tartans like Black Watch are widely worn and respected. District tartans linked to places are also open to anyone. You can choose by colour palette, by story, or by a place that matters to you. If you like a specific clan design, it is normally fine to wear it unless the Register lists a restriction.

Cultural respect, occasions, formal vs casual

Treat tartan as living heritage rather than a costume. For weddings, Burns Night, and formal events, pick a classic palette and keep accessories balanced. For casual wear, let colour lead and use tartan in smaller touches like a strap, tie, or scarf. If your choice references a clan or regiment, enjoy the history and be ready to answer questions politely. Checking the Register and the maker’s notes ensures that your selection is appropriate for the occasion.

How to Choose a Tartan, Step by Step

Start with surname and clan connections

Begin with your surname, then check recognised variations and sept names. Many families have multiple recorded setts, for example a main tartan plus Dress and Hunting versions. If your surname links to more than one clan, choose the design that best fits your story or region. Confirm the exact sett and any notes in an official register or reputable mill catalogue.

Consider district or aesthetic preference

If you have no clan link, consider a district tartan tied to a place you love. You can also choose purely by look. Decide whether you want high contrast colour, soft heritage tones, or an understated palette that blends with modern wardrobes. Think about the settings where you will wear it, weddings, office, weekends, travel.

Pick a palette, Modern, Ancient, Muted, Weathered, Dress, Hunting

Select the colour variant that matches your style.
Modern gives bold saturation and crisp contrast.
Ancient softens the shades to mimic older dyes.
Muted or Weathered adds grey undertones for an aged effect.
Hunting shifts toward greens and browns for an outdoor feel.
Dress introduces more white for formal brightness.
The sett stays the same in each case. You are only choosing the dye palette.

Select fabric and weight for climate and product

Match fibre and weight to use. Wool in medium or heavy weights suits kilts and structured garments. Lightweight wool or polyviscose works well for ties, scarves, and warm climates. For hard wearing accessories, such as straps and bags, tightly woven medium weight cloth or polyviscose keeps edges neat and patterns legible.

Check sett scale for the item, kilt vs tie vs watch strap

The same tartan can look perfect on a kilt and busy on a narrow strap. Scale is key.
Kilts often show a large sett so the full geometry reads across pleats.
Ties benefit from a small to medium sett so at least two coloured blocks appear on the blade.
Watch straps need a small sett so one dark and one light area show on an 18 to 22 mm band. Print a 1:1 mock-up or place the fabric under the item outline to judge how the repeat will crop.

Designing a Tartan From Scratch

Colour selection, symbolism, balance

Choose 3 to 6 colours to keep the design readable. Anchor the palette with one dark and one light so crossing areas produce clear blended blocks. Use symbolic choices where they make sense, for example local landscape colours, historical uniforms, school or corporate colours. Limit very thin pinstripes to one or two shades so the pattern does not look noisy at small scales.

Building the threadcount, symmetry vs asymmetry

Start with broad stripes to establish rhythm, then add medium and narrow stripes for interest. Decide if the sett will be symmetrical with a pivot or asymmetrical with a straight repeat. Symmetry gives a classic mirrored look and can simplify pleating. Asymmetry creates directional energy that can be striking on scarves, ties, and accessories. Record the threadcount in clear letter and number form, for example G8 K24 R4 K24 G8 W4, and note the pivot if used.

Testing scale on mock-ups, physical samples, digital previews

Test early and test at real size. Print a square of the sett at several scales, then overlay outlines for a kilt apron, a tie blade, or a 20 mm strap. Check for moiré or muddiness where stripes meet. If possible, order a small woven sample so you can judge hand feel, colour fastness, and edge definition. Adjust stripe ratios if thin lines vanish or large blocks dominate more than intended.

Path to registration, ownership, naming considerations

Once the design works at target scales, prepare a registration package. Include the tartan name, owner or designer details, the formal threadcount with colour key, a purpose statement, and a high-quality image of the sett. Confirm ownership and licensing arrangements if this is for a company, charity, school, or clan body. Choose a name that is specific and non-misleading, for example Organisation Name Commemorative 2025 rather than a generic place name that might already exist. After approval, record the reference number in your product and marketing materials so customers can verify authenticity.

Tartan in Fashion and Culture Today

Kilts, Highland dress, weddings, formal events

Tartan remains central to Highland dress. A formal kilt outfit typically pairs a clan or district tartan with a white shirt, waistcoat, jacket, kilt hose, and sporran. Weddings often follow regional customs. Many grooms choose their family sett in a Modern palette for crisp photographs, while wedding parties sometimes coordinate across variants so the groom wears Modern and attendants wear Ancient or Muted for contrast. Black tie events favour darker palettes such as Black Watch, Isle of Skye, or a muted district tartan since low contrast reads elegant under evening lighting. Formal etiquette is straightforward. Keep the tartan as the visual hero, then balance metals, leather, and shirt colour so the ensemble looks cohesive.

Everyday accessories, scarves, ties, bags, watch straps

Beyond ceremonies, tartan thrives in everyday accessories because small surfaces still show the geometry clearly. Scarves and ties work best with small or medium setts that display at least two coloured blocks on the visible area. Bags benefit from durable cloth such as tightly woven wool or polyviscose so edges stay neat. Watch straps are a perfect micro canvas. A small sett ensures one light and one dark area on the 18 to 22 mm band, which gives instant recognition without visual clutter. If your outfit already has strong pattern, choose Muted or Weathered palettes to add texture without competing with stripes or prints. If you want a statement accent, a Modern palette strap or tie delivers high contrast.

Runway, streetwear, interiors, global diaspora

Designers revisit tartan every season because it carries story and structure. On runways you will see oversized setts and unexpected colourways that reframe classic clans as fashion statements. Streetwear borrows military and school references, for example Black Watch shirts, oversized scarves, and hybrid garments that mix tartan with denim or technical fabrics. Interiors use tartan for warmth and rhythm. Large setts anchor upholstery and blankets, while small setts add quiet pattern to cushions or trims. Across the global Scottish diaspora, tartan functions as portable heritage. Community bands, schools, and cultural groups commission commemorative setts that mark anniversaries and events, which keeps the tradition evolving in a modern context.

Care and Maintenance

Cleaning by fibre, wool vs polyviscose

Treat tartan according to fibre. Most worsted wool should be dry cleaned to preserve colour and hand feel. Spot clean light marks with a damp cloth and mild soap, then blot rather than rub so you do not raise the nap. Steam to refresh between wears since steam relaxes creases without flattening the twill. Polyviscose is usually machine washable on a gentle, cool cycle. Use mild detergent, avoid bleach, and wash with like colours. Lay flat or hang to dry away from direct sun. Press with a warm iron through a pressing cloth. For mixed fibre accessories like watch straps, follow the maker’s instructions and avoid soaking to protect adhesive and edge finishing.

Storage and moth prevention

Store wool tartan clean and fully dry. Moths target protein fibres when they carry traces of sweat, skin oils, or food, so a quick refresh before storage pays off. Use breathable garment bags or acid free tissue, not plastic that traps moisture. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets deter moths without strong chemicals. For seasonal storage, fold along existing pleats and seams rather than forcing new creases. Keep items away from direct light to prevent gradual fading, especially in Ancient and Weathered palettes where subtle tones can shift with UV exposure.

Repair, alterations, pleat care

Deal with snags and loose threads early. Pull the fabric gently to settle the weave, then anchor the loose end on the reverse with a fine needle and matching thread. Small holes in wool can be invisibly darned by a skilled tailor using yarn that matches both colour and twist. Alterations on kilts should respect the sett alignment across the apron and pleats, so work with someone who understands Highland dress. Refresh pleats with steam rather than hard pressing. Set the iron just warm enough to encourage the twill to relax, then let the cloth cool flat so pleats hold their shape. For straps and small accessories, check edges and stitching periodically. A quick re-edge or stitch reinforcement prevents wear from becoming damage.

Sustainability and Ethics

Mill sourcing, local production, traceability

Responsible tartan begins with clear sourcing. Look for makers who name the mill, list the fibre type, and state where spinning, weaving, and finishing occur. True traceability tracks fibre origin, dyehouse, loom, and finisher. Local production reduces transport and helps preserve regional skills, while transparent supply chains make it easier to verify quality, labour standards, and environmental controls.

Natural vs synthetic dyes, durability over disposability

Modern tartan uses both natural and synthetic dyes. Natural dyes can produce beautiful, subtle palettes, but they need careful process control. High grade synthetic dyes give excellent light and wash fastness. The key is durability. A long wearing, colourfast cloth that can be repaired is more sustainable than a cheap print that fails quickly. Choose quality over quantity and care for it well.

How to assess a responsible maker

Check for detailed product specs, including weight, fibre, and finishing. Look for fabric testing, for example pilling resistance and colour fastness, and for third-party standards where relevant, such as OEKO-TEX for dyes and finishes. Favour cut to order production, repair services, and take back programmes. Be cautious of vague claims, unlabelled blends, and tartan prints that do not disclose a registered sett.

Common Myths and FAQs

“Tartan was banned for decades”, clarify Dress Act and repeal

After the 1745 Rising, the Dress Act of 1746 restricted Highland dress in parts of Scotland. It aimed to curb clan allegiance, not to erase every checked fabric. In 1782 the law was repealed. Tartan re-entered public life through regiments, pageantry, and later a national revival. The tradition did not end. It changed, then expanded.

“Only clan members can wear clan tartans”, explain norms

Most clan tartans are open to all. A few designs are restricted by convention, for example Balmoral, or by the owner, for example some corporate or regimental setts. If a tartan is restricted, that note appears in official records. When in doubt, pick an open clan, a district, or a universal favourite like Black Watch.

“All plaids are tartans”, clarify differences

In Scotland, tartan is the pattern. A plaid is a garment, for example a large tartan wrap. In North America, plaid often means any check. All tartans are plaid in that broad sense, but not all plaids are registered tartans with a defined threadcount, a named sett, and a recorded affiliation.

FAQs

How do I find my clan tartan by surname
Start with your primary surname, then check recognised variants and sept names. Many families have several recorded setts, such as main, Hunting, and Dress versions. If your name links to multiple clans, choose the one that best fits your family story, then select a colour palette that suits your use.

Can I wear tartan if I have no Scottish ancestry
Yes. Most tartans are open to everyone. You can choose a district tartan for a place you love, a universal pattern like Black Watch, or a clan sett that appeals to you. The only exception is restricted designs, which are reserved by the owner or by tradition.

What is the difference between Modern and Ancient palettes
They use the same sett and threadcount. Modern employs strong, saturated dyes that read bold and crisp. Ancient uses softer shades that echo older dye styles, for example moss green instead of bottle green. Choose by the mood you want, not by rules. Both are authentic.

What fabric weight is best for a kilt
Medium, around 12 to 13 oz, works for most day wear kilts and remains comfortable across seasons. Heavyweight, around 16 to 18 oz, gives sharp pleats and ceremonial presence. Lightweight, around 10 to 11 oz, suits warmer climates and softer garments. Match weight to climate, activity, and drape preference.

Is Black Watch a clan tartan or a universal tartan
Black Watch began as a regimental pattern used by Highland companies in the 18th century. Over time it became a widely worn universal tartan. Many civilians choose it for formal events because its dark green and blue sett looks elegant in evening settings and photographs.

Are tartans copyrighted or can anyone weave them
The idea of a sett is not automatically copyrighted. Specific artwork and names may have rights, and some owners restrict use. Always check an official register for notes on restrictions. If a tartan is open, any competent mill can weave it to the recorded threadcount and colours.

What is a threadcount and why does it matter
A threadcount is the recipe for a tartan. It lists colours and the number of threads for each stripe. Because warp and weft repeat the same order, the threadcount fixes the exact geometry. It lets any mill reproduce the pattern accurately, which protects authenticity over time.

How do I choose the right sett size for small items
Print the sett at full scale and place an outline of the item on top. For ties, aim to show at least two coloured blocks on the blade. For watch straps, pick a small sett so one light and one dark area appear on an 18 to 22 mm band. Adjust until the pattern reads cleanly.

What is the Scottish Register of Tartans
It is the public database that records tartan designs. Each entry includes the name, reference number, threadcount, colour key, category, designer or owner, date, and any restrictions. You can search by name or category to confirm details and to verify whether a design is open or restricted.

Can I design my own tartan and give it a name
Yes. Individuals, families, companies, and communities design new tartans every year. Build a balanced colour palette, write a clear threadcount, test scale on mock-ups, then submit a registration with ownership details and purpose. Choose a specific name that avoids confusion with existing designs.

How should I care for wool tartan at home
Air garments between wears, steam to refresh, and spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. Most worsted wool should be dry cleaned when heavily soiled. Store clean items in breathable bags with cedar or lavender. Avoid plastic covers that trap moisture and encourage mildew.

What is a restricted tartan
Restricted means the owner limits weaving, sale, or wear to a defined group, such as members, employees, or the Royal Household in the case of Balmoral. The restriction is recorded in the official entry. If you encounter a restricted design, choose one of the many open alternatives.

What is the difference between clan, district, and corporate tartans
Clan tartans attach to surnames and their historical clans. District tartans represent places, such as islands or regions. Corporate and organisational tartans belong to companies, schools, charities, or events. All are real tartans with recorded threadcounts. Restrictions vary by owner.

Can tartan be printed or should it always be woven
Woven tartan gives the best depth and durability because colours blend where warp and weft cross. Prints can work for fashion items and lightweight fabrics. If authenticity matters, look for a woven cloth with the recorded threadcount and a mill that lists the fabric weight and finish.

Glossary

Sett
The complete repeating unit of a tartan pattern, defined by the threadcount.

Threadcount
The coded sequence of colours and thread numbers that specifies stripe order and width.

Pivot
The centre point in a symmetrical sett where the pattern mirrors back.

Stripe
A band of one colour in the threadcount. Crossing stripes create blended squares.

Twill
A weave structure, commonly 2 over 2 under in tartan, that forms a diagonal rib.

Worsted
A smooth, strong yarn made from combed long wool fibres aligned parallel.

Kilt hose
Long socks worn with a kilt, usually ribbed, often cream or coloured to match the outfit.

Fly plaid
A large tartan square worn over the shoulder and fastened at the jacket for formal dress.

Sporran
A pouch worn at the front of a kilt outfit. It balances the apron and provides storage.

References and Further Reading

• Scottish Register of Tartans, official database and guidance on registration and restrictions.

• National Museums Scotland, articles and exhibitions on Scottish textiles and tartan history.

• Victoria and Albert Museum, textile collections and essays on tartan in fashion.

• The Scottish Tartans Authority, research resources on setts, history, and etiquette.

• The National Records of Scotland and UK legislation archives for the Dress Act of 1746 and its 1782 repeal.

• Blair Urquhart, “Tartans,” a concise reference to patterns and palettes.